Breast Cancer Awareness Month

Please do not forget that October is Breast Cancer Awareness month. It is always good to go green, but please remember pink is power. 

Never Give Up!

Pre-emergent Update

At this time of year you should raise your mowing height to between 2-2 1/2 inches to prepare your lawn for winter dormancy. Allowing your lawn to go dormant at a higher height will protect roots and crowns from freezes, frosts, and will chill. Scalping the grass or keeping it at a low height over the winter will expose the roots to the colder weather. This will increase the possibility of winter damage. 

We are currently applying pre-emergent to Bermuda and Zoysia lawns. Pre- emergent weed control is designed to stop the germination of many winter annual weeds. We use a liquid pre-emergent because this is the most effective way to establish a solid protective barrier on your lawn to prevent the winter weeds. We do this process twice in the fall to your Bermuda and Zoysia lawn.

There are several things that will prevent the pre-emergent from lasting to its optimum capability. A few of these are thin areas of grass, heavily compacted soil, excessive surface moisture, and turf mowed very low over the winter will cause the pre-emergent to break down much faster. So if any of these conditions

exist in your lawn, expect to see some weed activity over the winter. We can control the weeds that come through

the pre-emergent barrier, but it is always better to prevent them. 

There are several common weeds you may see over the next few months , and these are some of the many weeds we will be targeting. Poa Annua, chickweed, 

bittercress, henbit, and wild onion. Remember, a thicker and healthier lawn has a lower probability of having a high population of weed activity.

Army worms are here!!!

Army worms are out and about. This is what they look like, so let us know if you see them on your lawn.

Commercial and Sports Turf Management

If you have or you are responsible for turf care for a business, church, homeowner's association, sports field, or any other type of commercial property. Please give Mighty Green Lawn Care at (205) 290-1999

.

Time For Lime

                                        Soil pH is a number that indicates the acidity of the soil. The term "pH adjustment" means changing the acidity of the soil by adding lime. A soil pH of 7.0 is a "neutral" pH. When the soil pH is near 7.0 or slightly less, plant nutrients are most available for root uptake. When the soil  pH is very high or low, essential plant nutrients such as phosphorus and iron are tied up in the soil and not available for root uptake. In this case the lawn will perform poorly.

                                        Often turf grasses will not show visual symptoms, but the lawn may not respond well to fertilization if pH is not in the desirable range. Disease symptoms on turf may be more severe. 

                                         Soils have a certain pH range because of their parent material, the effects of climate, and many other factors. Soils in sandstone areas may have a lower pH range. The surface soil may have a neutral or slightly acid pH and be favorable for the growth of most plants, but during construction, soils close to bedrock are often brought to the surface and spread over the lawn. This soil may have a different pH and be unfavorable for turf growth. The lawn or ornamental plants growing in the new soil may benefit from pH adjustment. 

                                         Apply ground limestone to lawns to raise soil pH. These materials can be spread with a rotary lawn spreader when they are available in pellet form. 

                                        Give Mighty Green Lawn Care a call for more details and to schedule an appointment for us to come customize a lawn care plan for you. 

205.290.1999

www.mightygreenlawncare.com

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Drought Stressed Lawns

Turf grass plants are 70% to 75% water, which indicates the importance of moisture in maintaining a vigorous, healthy, growing plant. When grasses lose more water through the leaves than they absorb through the root system, the plants become stressed.

The early stages of drought stress are seen as turf grass changing colors from bright green to a dull gray or blue-green color. Footprints and lawn mower wheel track remain for a period of time and the grass does not spring back upright. As plants begin to wilt the grass blades roll or fold. With additional stress, the turf loses its green color and becomes yellow, then tan. A tan color indicates drought dormancy.

Grass plants that are in drought stress are often damaged by foot traffic and mowing. Do not mow lawns that are in drought stress. The grass is not growing, and the plants have less moisture content to protect the cellular structure from collapse and permanent damage.

Broad leaf weeds and weedy grasses in drought stressed lawns may outgrow the turf and create an uneven appearance. However, even mowing the lawn at a high cutting height to cut off tall weeds may still result in lawn damage. When a lawn is dry, mower wheels often leave stripes across the lawn when the grass blades are broken and damaged by the weight of the wheels.

Some turf grasses such as Bermuda grass and tall fecue have more tolerance of low moisture conditions than other grasses. Centipede grass, bent grass, and annual blue grass are more prone to drought stress, and will lose green color quickly when soil moisture is low.

Heavy clay soils and sandy soils are not favorable for growing turf during periods of low moisture. The clay holds the moisture so tightly that grass roots cannot retrieve moisture, while sandy soils have a low moisture holding capacity.

Turf roots growing in thatch rather than in soil can result in a grass more prone to drought stress. Thatch is a layer of dead but undecomposed roots and stems above the soil. Thatch acts like a sponge. It quickly absorbs rainfall, but also dries out rapidly, leaving plant roots dry even after rainfall or watering.

Lawns mowed shorter than recommended for a grass type may have a shallow root system growing in the soil. A shallow root system dries quickly even when thatch is minimal.

Water the lawn once grass begins to discolor and wilt. If it is not possible to water sufficiently to keep grass green, water the lawn with at least 1/2 inch of water every 7 to 14 days. This light watering will help keep the plants alive even if they are dormant. Do NOT mow the lawn during hot weather when signs of drought stress are present. 

Irrigation ...Watering Tips

Many areas of the country regularly experience periods of dry weather during the summer. Irrigation is essential in these areas for maintaining attractive, healthy lawns. Lawns that are not properly watered become stressed and may brown and become thin. Weakened turf grass is more subject to certain disease problems, insect damage, and weed invasion.

Irrigation should wet the soil to a depth of 4-6". This depth in the soil is the area where most turf roots are growing. A loam or clay soil will be moistened to a depth of approximately 6" by 1-11/2" of water. A sandy soil will require 1/2 or 3/4" of water to moisten the top of 6" soil. Soils differ in the amount of time required to absorb a given amount of water. Clay soils have a very slow water infiltration rate, and it may not be possible to apply enough water to properly wet a clay soil before it begins to run off the surface. Place a container in the irrigation water pattern and measure the water collected in the container. If the water starts to run off the lawn before the desired amount is applied, move the sprinklers or stop the irrigation and resume after a period of time.

Regardless of soil type, it is more efficient to water lawns at the first sign of drought stress rather than wait until the lawn is dormant. Initial signs of water deficit in the soil is wilting  of the turn so that footprints in the grass do not spring back after walking on the lawn. An additional sign of drought stress is a blue or gray coloration of turf that is normally brighter green.

The time of the day watering usually is not critical, but watering in the heat of the day results in more loss of water to evaporation before the water soaks into the soil. watering in the morning results in more efficient use of the water. Watering in the evening is satisfactory unless the lawn has a disease problem. For many homeowners without automatic irrigation systems, late afternoon and evening is the only time of the day they can water the lawn.

Many grasses require 1-2" of water per week during normal summer weather. Hot, dry, windy weather may produce a greater water requirement.

Thatch intercepts and absorbs water, preventing water from infiltrating into the soil. Trapping the water in the thatch encourages the grass to have shallow roots, subjecting it to drying. Compacted soils where people walk or play have low water infiltration rates. Lawn aeration will improve infiltration of water in thatched lawns or lawns with compacted soils.

Roots from large trees often extend into the lawn area and draw moisture from the soil. More frequent watering may be required for turf under or near large trees.

Objects such as construction debris, sewers, or rocks buried in the soil will show up as localized dry spots. These spots will show signs of drought stress early before the remainder of the lawn and may require extra watering.

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